Prestonfield
"Triple A-rated spoil-me factor" - Tatler
Just for the record, here’s a list of recent accolades accorded to Prestonfield: Europe’s sexiest hotels (Mr & Mrs Smith); best 101 hotels in the world (Tatler); Hotel of the Year 2005 (AA); Edinburgh's only AA 5 red star hotel.
It’s fair to say that Prestonfield has got itself noticed since James Thomson acquired the 17th-century house, restored all the fabulous architectural detail and decorative features, lavishly restyled all the bedrooms, mixed it up with black and red, gothic and gold, leather and snakeskin, and turned Prestonfield into the most rock ‘n’ roll country hotel in history. Well, certainly in Scotland’s history.
This is a five-star, super-luxury, fab-tastic boutique hotel experience – even if you don’t happen to be one of the guests who arrives on the front lawn by helicopter. Everyone gets the black-kilted greeter, the ultra-personal service, the high visual drama of the drawing and dining rooms, and an opulent and spacious bedroom, theatrically accessorised with velvet, satin, mosaic and high tech toys alongside antique ephemera. It’s attracted a young and dynamic clientele who appreciate the unique mix of ancient and modern.
A stay at Prestonfield (0131 225 7800) can have many highlights. Rare malt whisky by the fire in the snug bar. Peaceful afternoon tea on the terrace or lawn, accompanied by peacocks – longstanding garden residents (you won’t believe you’re still in the city). Champagne by the Christmas tree, surrounded by candles, orchids, ancient tapestries. Private dining in the historic dining rooms (from just 2 in the house, to 500 people in the old stables). Enjoying the food – and the vibe – in Rhubarb restaurant. Or just spending hours and hours luxuriating in your fun and funky room.
Rhubarb
"Rhubarb... is so exquisite you could spend an entire weekend lazing around without even venturing out into the city" - The Guardian
If you’re coming to dine at Rhubarb, the restaurant at Prestonfield (0131 225 1333), make sure you give yourself the luxury of plenty of time. This is not an experience to be rushed or fitted in between other pressing dates. Indulge yourself. A lot of time, effort and – let’s be honest – expense went into creating this restaurant. It’s a destination in its own right (the hotel has 22 rooms, and Rhubarb can seat 90). So be prepared to clear your mind, and to see, feel and taste.
First the look: this is super-opulent theatrical eye-candy, conjured with silk and damask, antiques, tapestries, lose-yourself seating and moody low-lighting. Then the feel: relaxed, unstuffy but also sophisticated. With immaculate, old-style service, bars and salons available for pre- and post-dinner drinks, and even 20 acres of gardens to take a refreshing turn in, you’ll soon feel like Grace Kelly and Frank Sinatra in High Society. The taste: modern British, with a few foreign delicacies added to the mix.
People deserve to treat themselves now and again, and Rhubarb is the perfect place for a little upscale over-indulgence. Since opening in 2003 it has received favourable reviews from guides, inspectors, professional critics and its celebrity clientele. As the youngest sister of The Witchery by the Castle and The Tower, it has some pretty effective role models. Oh – and one last thing: if you weren’t in the mood for romance before you arrived, you will be by the time you’ve finished your final digestif.
THE SUITES AT THE WITCHERY BY THE CASTLE
Let's spend the night together
"Almost as famous as the castle itself" - Harpers & Queen
If someone suggests the Witchery by the Castle Suites to you, grab their collar and don't let them go until you're over the threshold. But before that, delete anything you ever knew about staying in a hotel, because this is an entirely different experience.
The seven Witchery Suites - Vestry, Library, Inner Sanctum, Old Rectory, Sempill, Guardroom and Armoury - are contained within atmospheric, antique buildings on Edinburgh's Royal Mile, adjacent to their famous sister restaurant, The Witchery by the Castle. They are opulent to the point of decadence, and beyond luxurious, having been kitted out in rich reds and golds, with theatrical swaggery, decorative ephemera, aromatic orchids and an indulgent supply of champagne. With these aphrodisiacal qualities, it will come as no surprise that many guests choose to spend more of their Edinburgh break in their suite than out of it. Continental breakfast, newspapers and mineral water (but only if you want them) are discreetly delivered.
It's not easy to get in to a Witchery Suite - even VIPs sometimes have to wait a bit. But this unforgettable experience is so worth the wait.
Restaurant as theatre
"Is this the prettiest restaurant ever? I think so" - Andrew Lloyd Webber
Moody candlelight, ancient stones and dynamic taste sensations: it could only be The Witchery by the Castle, running for over 30 years as a much-loved edinburgh institution (0131 225 5613). This conjures an experience and atmosphere that is not easy to replicate, which is possibly why it is more often than not booked out with a lively mix of locals and visiting celebrities (check out the guestbook – a people-watcher’s dream). Nobody does restaurant-as-theatre quite like The Witchery, and there is a certain alchemy to its position on Castlehill, almost within touching distance of Edinburgh Castle.
All this would be so much hocus pocus if the food were not up to matching the location. But over the years it has created some menu classics – steak tartare, seafood platters, lobster – alongside Scottish signatures such as wild salmon and fillet steak cooked to perfection… and it never stands still, posing on its laurels. The Witchery team is constantly looking to source a better ingredient or a more perfect wine to accompany it.
Despite its popularity, the utterly seductive Witchery remains a popular choice for those with a big romantic scene on their agenda.
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